The Classic: Vegetable Tanned Leather

When you think of high quality, artisan-made bags, you probably think of vegetable tanned leather. And for good reason. With incredible character and the ability to patina beautifully over time, vegetable tanned is often the go-to choice for many artisans. But what is it, exactly? Simply put, vegetable tanned leather is produced using only tannins and other ingredients found in nature – like the bark, leaves, and branches of plants and trees. Tanning with these ingredients is a slow process that can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months, depending on the type of leather being produced. Because of this slow process and the lack of harsh chemicals, the natural grain and markings of the leather remain intact. You can really tell the difference between vegetable tanned leather and other types – and if you like that organic look and feel, you might find it impossible to settle for anything less.

Vegetable tanned leather also happens to be quite firm when it’s new, so it’s perfect for structured bag styles like satchels, briefcases, or tote bags. Plus, because the leather is so natural and isn’t sanded or buffed to remove imperfections, it tends to be quite matte when it’s new. As you handle the leather and it’s exposed to different lighting, it will slowly begin to develop a gorgeous patina. It’s amazing to see what a little time (and love) can do to a beautiful piece of leather. Scuffs will blend in, the edges will develop a gorgeous sheen, and the overall color will deepen and become richer. There’s really nothing quite like it.

The reason many of us artisanal bag-makers choose to work with vegetable tanned leather is because it’s incredibly sustainable, and eco-friendly. Vegetable tanned leather is produced without harsh chemicals, so it has a lower environmental impact than other types of leather. And when it’s time to retire your leather bag, vegetable tanned leather is biodegradable. Many tanneries that produce vegetable tanned leather also have a commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility, so you can trust that you’re getting high quality leather from a source you can feel good about. When you work with vegetable tanned leather, you can really see (and feel) that it’s a natural material. It’s wonderful to work with, because it feels so alive. You can make it shine and glow with just a little bit of oil or wax, and it can be molded and shaped in incredible ways. One of the hallmarks of a beautifully made leather bag is the way the edges are burnished and buffed until they shine – and that process is really only possible with vegetable tanned leather.

But the best part? The way a vegetable tanned bag will transform over time, as you use it. It will darken in the places you touch most often, and lighten in the places where it doesn’t get as much sun. It will develop creases and folds as you use it day in and day out, and after awhile it will start to feel like the leather was made for you, personally. There’s really no experience quite like carrying a high quality, artisan-made leather bag day in and day out, and watching it transform into something truly one-of-a-kind.