While some companies have switched to using sewing machines, there’s no substitute for hand-stitching a bag. It’s stronger, more pliable, and better looking. A skilled craftsman will use a traditional “saddle stitch.” He will make a hole with an awl, then use two needles (one on each side of the leather) to push waxed thread through the hole. After each stitch, he will pull one thread one way, and the other thread the other way, so the thread locks into place. This helps prevent any particular hole from taking too much strain. A well-made saddle-stitched seam will be smooth to the touch, yet supple. A bag will bend and twist without the seam beginning to crack. There’s a comfort to be found in a skilled saddle-stitcher’s motion: pull, twist the awl hole, tug as the threads come together in the middle. Each stitch is a sign of the man’s attention, a way for him to get in tune with the leather.
Before you begin stitching, you need to prepare the leather. A pricking iron (it looks like a little metal stamp with a series of diamond shaped points) is used to mark the correct distance between the stitches. The distance will depend on the size of the item and its intended purpose, but generally you will mark every four to six stitches per inch. If they are too far apart, the resulting work will be too loose. If they are too close together, you will end up weakening the leather. An awl is then used to make a small hole in each of the marked points. It should be just large enough to allow the needle to pass through, but not so large that it tears the leather. You will generally use a waxed linen or polyester thread to sew your leather. Many people wax their own thread with beeswax to help it slip through the leather, to make it more resistant to wear, and to protect it from moisture. A glovers’ needle, which has a triangular point, is used for stitching.
The edges of the seam are also important to the overall appearance of the stitch. The stitches should create a raised line that can catch the light, providing a bit of visual interest, but not obscuring the grain of the leather. A small amount of variation in the direction or height of the stitches can lend some personality to the piece, and help differentiate it from machine-made stitching. Burnishing the edges after sewing closes and polishes them, much like the way a picture frame presents the image it holds. This can make the stitching a design element in its own right, particularly on flaps, handles, or the seam up the gusset of a bag.
There’s also a romantic aspect to hand-stitching. The fact that the bag has taken so long to sew, rather than being churned out in just a few minutes by a machine, lends it character. I think the owner can feel this as they trace their fingers over the stitches or notice how the thread gradually changes colour as the bag ages, much like the leather. It also makes any repair easier to do as you can simply re-stitch the broken thread rather than having to take the whole bag to bits. In an age of instant gratification, you could say that hand-stitching is a way of celebrating slower values.
If you like working with leather, learning to saddle stitch means that you can now make anything you want, however you want it. You can use whatever length stitches and color thread you desire. The stitch is both timeless and contemporary making it perfect for both a modern day bag or a traditional work of art. Once you get going, your hands will learn what your eyes are seeing and each stitch you complete will be a testament to your improving abilities and your ever increasing pride in what you do.